Saturday, October 30, 2010

My trip to Guatemala - Day 16

September 27, 2010

Today was a pretty typical day: I went to class in the morning, ate lunch and dinner with my roommates and then retired to bed. We've officially entered the rainy season, so I think my days or aimlessly walking around and sitting in the park might be over. While I wish I could get outside more, there's something very peaceful about hearing the pitter patter of raindrops on our house's tin roof.

One of my favorite parts about traveling is pondering the subtleties in cultural differences of where I am versus where I am from. One of the differences I've noticed is greetings. In Guatemala, it's considered rude if you don't greet someone as soon as they walk into the room. Like, you actually have to interrupt what you're doing in order to shake their hand/hug them and ask about their day. This is true even if the person stumbled late into a meeting or event.

In the US, if you're late to a meeting, I find that we appreciate it if you quietly find a seat, settle in and perhaps quickly apologize for not being prompt. However, in Guatemala, if you come in late, it's like a party. Everyone breaks from the meeting's agenda to take turns greeting you.

I first noticed this in my classes. When someone would walk by our table, my teacher would always invite them over and say hello. They would shake my hand, ask how we both were doing and briefly detail how their morning had been going.

I kind of like the way they do things here. It makes you feel special, acknowledged. I feel like we're so quick to rush things in the US, and even when we are exchanging pleasantries, I feel like people don't really care. They say things like, "hi" or "how are you?" because it's customary, but I don't know that they really want the answer. Here, it seems that people actually do.

I've also noticed that there are a lot of young, single moms here. Birth control is very frowned upon (and I believe abortion is illegal) since it's a predominately Catholic country. In fact, birth control is so hush-hush that some clinics have a scar-free way of performing tubal ligation surgeries so women who undergo the procedure don't have to tell their husbands/partners. Since it's Catholic, I would assume that people would get married when they're relatively young (since, the last time I checked, sex before marriage was still a no-no in the Catholic church). But, they don't seem to. Instead, they seem to have relationships which result in pregnancies, and then it seems like a lot of the women are left to take care of the babies. The same is probably true in the US, but perhaps I've been noticing it more here.

To view some pictures of my trip, go check out my album on facebook.

My trip to Guatemala - Day 15

September 26, 2010

Today was a low-key day. I think I needed the rest after a night of bar-hopping.

Linda, Annie, Miranda and I joined Leidy (one of the women who works in the office of La Union) and her two-year-old son for a late breakfast at the Bagel Barn. The Bagel Barn is a great little coffee shop that you might see in an American college town. It's very cozy, and filled with people writing in journals or using their laptops as they sip various hot beverages. The Bagel Barn even plays Spanish films for free in the evenings.

Plus, they have cool breakfasts that come with your choice of multivitamins or cigarettes. Tough call on which to choose: an immune system booster or cancer.


That's Linda with Leidy's adorable son.

He kept wanting to toast, and kept repeating the Spanish word for "cheers" as he brought his glass up to mine. Precious! For a brief moment, it kind of made me want one.

After we left Bagel Barn, we headed to another coffee shop where Linda, Miranda and I chatted for a long time, and I attempted to study (although I actually just got sucked into facebook-browsing and people-watching).

In the evening, I went to the movie theatre for the first time. There's only one cinema in Antigua, and it only has one screen. The films are free to view if you buy a drink. And, trust me, they have drinks a plenty as the theater features a full bar and restaurant menu. While you're at the mercy of the staff's movie selection (romantic comedies like "Love Happens" aren't generally my first choice), the atmosphere is really quiet and provides a nice opportunity to get lost in a film.

So after some beer and cinematic romance ("Love Happens" wasn't nearly as awful as I thought it would be), I headed home and fell asleep quickly.

To view more pictures of my trip, go check out my album on facebook.

My trip to Guatemala - Day 14

September 25, 2010

Today marked some very important firsts. It was the first time I ate sushi in Guatemala, the first time I visited one of Antigua's hostels, and the first time I got hit on by someone young enough to be my son.

The evening started when Aki and Natsko (who both are staying at the same youth hostel) invited a bunch of folks over for a sushi-making party. Um, yes, please! I don't know if there's anything I love more on this earth than sushi (okay, okay, fine, world peace and NKOTB, but sushi would probably be a close third), so I was quite excited to attend. They were so nice and even bought a bunch of avocados, carrots, cucumbers and peppers for vegan sushi.

As soon as everyone arrived, we all became ravenous sushi-making machines. My rolls looked more like burritos as I never quite got the hang of tightly rolling them, but they were still quite delicious!

After we were nearly in a food coma, we cleaned up and decided to head out to the bars.

Wait, let me back up.

At the sushi party, we met three guys who were also staying at the hostel. None of them spoke much English, and from what I gathered in Spanish, they were there doing internships in Antigua as they were studying tourism at school and Antigua is a really big tourist town. They spoke quickly and used a lot of slang (and their accents seemed to be different as they were from the southern part of Guatemala), but they were nice and seemed to laugh a lot. So when they asked if they could join us (Miranda, Annie, Linda and me) at the bar, we obliged.

We bar-hopped and went to the usual suspects: Rum Bar, Cafe No Se and Monoloco. During our stop to Cafe No Se, one of the interns started chatting me up. Orlando (as I mistakenly called him all night when his real name was Rolando) started asking questions like where I was from, how old I was, what I did for a living, etc. I asked him the same questions and busted his chops a little bit when he told me he was 23.

"I don't believe you," I said in Spanish.

"It's true," was his reply.

We went back and forth a little bit more before I finally decided to believe him. After all, there was really no point in arguing with a random stranger over something that had no bearing on our mutual affinity for beer.

After a brief conversation, he asked me if I had a boyfriend. As I previously learned, if you're not currently in the market for a new boyfriend, it's best to say "yes," whether you have one or not. Otherwise the next question usually involves getting asked out on a date. But, if you say yes, you can generally just move on with friendly conversation.

To my surprise, he pressed on.

"Where does your boyfriend live? The United States?"

"Yes," I replied.

He mulled it over for a moment, and then said, "You know, you could have two boyfriends. One here and one back home."

I laughed out loud and told him I appreciated the offer, but that's way too many.

He quietly laughed to himself and then dropped it.

After that, we returned to regular conversation. And by regular conversation, I mean, him repeatedly asking me if I was drunk yet. We also ate popcorn and took turns teaching each other the Spanish/English word for it (it's poporopo in case anyone is curious). By the way, poporopo might be my new favorite Spanish word, replacing sacapuntas (pencil sharpener).

As we were on our way to Monoloco, Annie all of a sudden turned to me and said, "Do you know we're hanging out with a bunch of high school students?" "Uh, what?" "Yeah, they're in high school. They're here doing their high school internships."

When Orlando/Rolando started talking to me again, he asked me if I wanted to go out dancing with him. I thanked him for the offer, but politely declined.

I then said, "How old are you really, anyway?"

"23," he insisted.

"Okay, show me your ID then. Prove it."

Without missing a beat, he pulled out a picture ID.

Upon looking at it, I cracked up for two reasons: 1. because it didn't have his birthday on it (which I quickly pointed out) and 2. because it said "colegio" on it, and it was from 2010. Colegio looks/sounds a lot like college, but in Guatemala it means private high school.

So basically he showed me his current high school ID to prove that he was 23.

When we finally headed to Monoloco, the interns couldn't even get in as they were underage. And I'm not talking underage as in under 21. I mean underage as in under 18.

So Orlando/Rolando could have been my child. Too bad he didn't ask if I had a son back in the United States, and if I wanted to add one of those to my collection.

The before:


Natsko demonstrating how to make sushi:







Possessed or just really excited to be making sushi? Perhaps a bit of both.


My first attempt at making sushi.




Yum!


More yum!


The interns.




My second attempt. For those of you who are wondering, that's carrots, peppers, guacamole and cucumbers. Vegan sushi rules!


Sushi-making party group shot.


Post sushi-making/pre-food coma.

To view more pictures of my trip, go check out my album on facebook.

My trip to Guatemala - Day 13

September 24, 2010

Class today was enjoyable as usual. I was excited to start conjugating verbs for the past tense. This might not be thrilling to others, but it is most helpful to be able to say "I went to the bathroom" vs. "I am currently going to the bathroom." And I was pleased when Miranda told she was impressed by how much Spanish I learned in two weeks. Honestly, I am surprised by how much I've learned as well, and I didn't expect to be so fearless in speaking it to strangers (especially when I'm alone in a bank or store).

Unfortunately, I learned that the school's trip to Panajachel and Chichicastenango was canceled due to the tropical storm that's supposed to come this weekend. I contemplated traveling there on my own, but decided against it when one of the women in the La Union office said there was a good chance that the roads back to Antigua might get rained out. So I just stuck around town instead.

In the evening, Miranda and I met Annie and Linda at Rainbow Cafe. We watched Sergio perform again before heading to Rum Bar. Upon walking in, I decided it was my favorite place in Antigua (I know, I know, this has happened before, but this time, I mean it). It's kind of like Cafe No Se with its tranquil atmosphere and lighting by candles, but it's smaller and features a loft with only pillows to sit on. We ran into Luis (from Juan's band) and Aki (from La Union) and met Mike (a super nice guy who just returned to Guatemala after living in the US for a long time). We plopped on the loft's pillows, giggled and tried to fight off sleep (or at least I did). I can't tell if it's the complete lack of iron in my diet here or my mind's ability to finally relax and let go, but I have been so sleepy since the beginning of my trip. Perhaps my body is just making up for all of the rest I failed to get during the past year.


Mike and Aki in the loft at Rum Bar.


More Rum Bar.


And even more Rum Bar.

To view more pictures of my trip, go check out my album on facebook.

My trip to Guatemala - Day 12

September 23, 2010

Wow! What a full day this turned out to be. In the morning, I went to class for two hours before joining several classmates and teachers on a tour of the Gallo beer factory. Gallo is Guatemala's most famous beer, and the factory (which is located in Guatemala City) is flippin' huge! They're able to produce 40,000 bottles per hour, which translates to them being a frat boy's dream come true. I wish I was able to take more pictures in the factory, but photography was prohibited (Apparently, they were scared members of our group were going to give away their beer secrets. Little did they know the only secret I know about beer is that the free kind is the best!).

One of the most fun parts of the trip (other than getting to sample beer at the end of the tour) was listening to the two Australian guys at the school speak (one of whom bears a striking resemblance to Jack Sparrow from Pirates of the Caribbean). They use the word "fuck" constantly, and I think they're both in a constant state of hang-over. In fact, one of them was joking that he dreamt he had OD'ed on alcohol. "Not possible," the other one declared.

After they called each other bastards with various adjectives in front of the word, they then started comparing the way they tan to animals. For example, "I tan like a fucking zebra" one would say, to which the other would counter, "No, you tan like a fucking jaguar" (pronounced yag-yoo-wire), and so forth. Then, they declared that they were going to go to "fucking town tonight" at the bar. Jack Sparrow suggested that they invite someone else out who could keep up with their drinking. The other, a bearded guy with long-side bangs, argued that nobody could keep up with their drinking. Jack then concurred.

I tried a Monte Carlo beer at the factory, and it must've gotten to me as I fell asleep on the bus ride home. After the factory tour, I went to a workshop at the school on how to make tortillas. I thought we were going to learn the entire process, but we mostly just learned how to smash them like pancakes and throw them on the frying surface. Oh well, it was still fun, and I enjoyed loading them up with beans and guacamole (and eating them, too!).

I then headed home and met our new roommate at the guesthouse. Oh boy, where to begin about this man? He looks like an old, retired lawyer with unruly gray hair, gaps in his teeth and a slight East Coast accent. He joined me for dinner and spoke while his mouth was full of corn. He went on and on about himself as he nibbled a couple of ears in typewriter-fashion. He explained that he had a girlfriend of three years, just retired from the Balinese furniture importing/exporting business and lived in the San Francisco Bay Area. He immediately began asking personal questions, like if and who I was dating and how things were in the bedroom. I instantly got creeped out and tried to quickly change the subject. That same night, he asked Miranda if she wanted to sit on his lap while she showed him how to use her laptop. He later asked me if I wanted to conserve water by taking a shower with him.

I immediately became enraged. What gives him the right to sexually harass us in our own home? And for him to think that I would even entertain the idea of showering with someone my dad's age is downright disgusting. Plus, he chews with his mouth open to boot!

I then began thinking about some of the injustices being female brings with it here. Not only do men hit on you shamelessly and constantly, but it's unsafe to walk home alone. I totally took the right to walk to a convenience store in the States for granted. Here, in order just to return home, it's necessary to be accompanied by someone else. Not only does this add time to trips as Miranda, Linda, Annie and I usually walk each other and stop at multiple houses and places, but it's an unfair burden women must bear.

In order to escape our new roommate's weirdness, we headed to Monoloco to support a fundraiser for children who live in a literal garbage dump (read: we got crunk and gave the money to a worthy cause). We met several people from our school there, and tried to avoid eye contact with Mr. Sexual Harassment as he showed up as well. We all sat at a large table and exchanged humorous anecdotes, including one from Andrew (the guy with a Southern accent that makes Dolly Parton sound like a Yankee) about his cousin who worked as a server at Applebee's. When she approached a table of gentlemen (term is used loosely) after their main meal, she said, "What would y'all (because it was the South) like for dessert?" "I'll have a Southern delight," was the reply. She inquired what that was.

"You, nekkid on a piece of toast!"

Granted, it doesn't sound all that funny in writing, but hearing someone say "nekkid" for "naked," and actually be serious about it, is priceless in my book!

And now, onto the pictures!


Where they make Gallo beer. AKA Heaven.


Mi maestra, Yaneth a la fábrica Gallo.


Gallo beer factory tour.


The best part of the Gallo beer factory tour: free booze at the end.


Drinking up on a school-sponsored field trip. Too bad Dexter High School didn't organize such events.






Making tortillas.




The finished product with beans and guacamole. Mmm!

To view more pictures of my trip, go check out my album on facebook.

My trip to Guatemala - Day 11

September 22, 2010

After class, I went to Ciudad Vieja (a neighboring pueblo) to watch a La Union teachers vs. students soccer game. At first, I wasn't going to go as I'm not a huge sports fan, and the thought of playing soccer seemed mighty scary and the thought of watching it seemed somewhat boring. But I am so glad I went!

As soon as I stepped on the bus, I felt a sense of camaraderie. I quickly introduced myself to the person I was sitting next to (Stefan, a forty-something guy from Switzerland who quit his job to learn Spanish, which just happens to be his fourth language), and I heard others doing the same. On the way to the game, I met Mae (a woman from Wisconsin who used to work as a legal advocate at a sexual assault center), Maria and Ivan (an English couple who started their current trip in San Francisco and plan to travel all the way to Buenos Aires before heading home), Andrew (a friendly, recent college grad from Tennessee with one of the thickest Southern accents I've heard in a long time) and two guys from Japan, who both have extremely funny names. Aki Nose sounds like Aqui No Se, which, in Spanish means Here, I Don't Know. Upon first meeting him, I immediately conjured images of an Abbott and Costello routine in the making. The other guy's name is Kohie (pronounced Ko-Hay), which apparently sounds exactly like the s/he verb form of cojer (which is a dirty/slang word for sex. In English, kind of like the F bomb). I can't decide whose name I enjoy more.

Once again, I was struck by how friendly everyone was. The game was fun, and I liked cheering and taking pictures. Some of the players were quite serious, and I was so glad I was able to stay sweat and dirt-free on the sidelines.

During game breaks and on the way back, I was able to talk to more of my classmates. For instance, Mr. I Don't Know has been to 40 countries and he's done stints as a chef in many of them (although photography remains his dream). Ivan and Maria worked as a lawyer and a banker before deciding their dream was travel and subsequently quitting their jobs. With the exception of Ivan and Maria, everyone was traveling alone. I was impressed by their bravery to do something alone, and I was also extremely inspired by everyone's ability to break from the beaten path in order to pursue adventure. I felt very at home with this group of strangers, and hearing their stories has driven me to travel more and sink my teeth deeper into new experiences!

Some pictures from the intense game, in which five red cards were handed out. Okay, okay, that last part was a fib, but some of the players do have some mighty intense looks on their faces (especially in the last one).













To view more pictures of my trip, go check out my album on facebook.

My trip to Guatemala - Day 10

September 21, 2010

I woke up today feeling refreshed and content. After class, I planned to visit Cerro de la Cruz (basically a ginormous cross in the outskirts of Antigua) with other students from La Union. The teachers were going to guide us to the area near the cross, which is supposed to have the best views of Antigua, but it started raining so the trip was canceled. Apparently, when booking the trip, "somebody" forgot to thoroughly research the weather here and landed herself in the middle of the rainy season. Oh well, I suppose I can't complain much when the ticket was free, right?

Instead, I just hung out in my room until Miranda got home around 6, and we ate dinner together. She talked to me a lot about feeling grounded, being in the moment, feeling the present in my bones. At 6:15 pm on a Tuesday evening, my feet were in Antigua and my head had to match that. I thought a lot about what she said and decided in that moment to embrace the rest of my trip that way. No more missing home and thinking too much about what's going on there. Instead, I will be present. I will be here.

After our conversation, we went to Cafe No Se with Linda. I found this bar to be my favorite place in Antigua so far. It was really quaint, lit nearly only by candles and it was filled with the sound of slow, live music and chuckling patrons. The only problem is that the menus were in English, and nearly everyone in there was an expat. I get enough of the US while I'm there; and I really don't need more while I'm here.

We bought the largest sized Gallos they served, and the conversation quickly turned to awkward hook-ups. We went around the table, exchanged stories, squealed with laughter and competed to see whose story was the best (and by best I mean most horribly awkward and laughable). Because I want to protect the "innocent" on here, I won't reveal the stories, but I will say the winning account involved a very poorly-timed nosebleed.

I was shocked by how quickly the time passed, but the conversation was easy and my head felt a delightful, tingly warmth with every sip. So I happily stayed until 1:00 am. After having some rainy solitude, connecting with people and laughing at all the silliness that comes with having humanity was exactly what I needed.

To view pictures of my trip, go check out my album on facebook.